Whelping
and Weaning
It
has been found that the gestation period for a bitch is fairly
precise at around 63 days from ovulation but unless the precise
day of ovulation is determined by testing an owner cannot
be that accurate in marking the magic date on their calendar.
Without testing to determine ovulation birth can be up to
72 days after mating, it would be inadvisable though to wait
for more than day 65 before checking with your Vet that all
is well.
The
Stages of birth
The concentration of the hormone prostaglandin begins to rise
in the final days of pregnancy. This, it is believed, restricts
the blood flow to the corpus luteum causing its degeneration.
Approximately 24 hours prior to whelping the bitch’s
temperature will drop to below 99 degrees Fahrenheit, normal
temperature is 101.8. You may notice your bitch’s eyes
dilate and the need to have you near for reassurance, she
may also seek a dark safe place to hide and refuse food. The
drop in temperature occurs due to the fall in serum progesterone
concentrations following the degeneration of the corpus luteum,
which secretes this hormone. This drop in serum progesterone
in turn induces an increase in the pituitary hormone Prolactin
which initiates the secretion of milk. Prolactin also has
specific effects on maternal behaviour, restlessness, nest
building (digging, shredding of bedding) and panting will
follow the increase in its levels and be the first outward
signs that the bitch’s body has begun the
first stage of labour. The uterine contractions
during this stage will become synchronous and strengthen as
the cervix of the uterus dilates, a clear or white discharge
may be observed at this time. These first stage contractions
are painful and the bitch may vomit a little or whine.
The
second stage of labour usually begins 6 to 18 hours
after the drop in temperature, if there is no sign of productive
contractions within 24 hours of the drop in temperature Veterinary
advice should be sought. Second stage contractions are powerful
and obvious leading to the expulsion of the puppies. The pups
are born in fluid filled sacks, amniotic membranes, and are
usually attached to and followed by the placenta. Normal presentation
is head first but breach and feet first births are not uncommon
and generally without complication. The bitch will tear open
the sack, if it doesn’t tear during the process of birth,
and chew through the umbilical cord. She will then vigorously
wash the pup stimulating breathing and circulation, this process
also helps bonding and recognition of her offspring for Mother.
If the bitch does not tear open the sacks you must intervene
for her then clear any fluid and mucus from the mouth and
nose area and if necessary vigorously but gently rub the puppy
with some towelling to simulate the mothers licking. It may
also be necessary to deal with the cord yourself too. Afterbirths
are frequently eaten, in the wild they would provide excellent
nutrition for the bitch but in the domestic situation this
is not necessary and it may be sensible to limit how many
are consumed to prevent tummy upsets. If possible keep a count
of the placentas to ensure all are expelled. Puppies should
appear anything from a few minutes to 1½ hours apart,
contractions will decrease in frequency as the bitch rests
but will increase as the next puppy’s birth approaches.
It is not uncommon for there to be a break in the delivery
process, up to 3 hours, but if you are concerned there are
more pups to arrive veterinary help should be sought beyond
this time or if the bitch shows any signs of distress. Sometimes
a walk around the garden and a chance for Mum to relieve herself
will get things moving again but do make sure a pup is not
delivered at the same time. Also if Mum is having strong contractions
but no pup appears after an hour seek assistance. During the
breaks in labour offer Mum some cool water with a little glucose
added, giving birth is hard work and will sap her energy reserves.
The
third stage of labour occurs after all the pups have
been born, the uterus contracts fully expelling any remaining
placenta fluids and blood.
How long the labour will last depends on many factors not
least the size of the litter but typically only when the last
pup has arrived and the uterus is empty will contractions
cease.
Complications
of whelping include –
Primary uterine inertia – The bitch
fails to have contractions, but the cervix dilates, the placentas
may detach from the uterine wall. Can be difficult to detect
especially if you do not have an exact due date. The bitch
may be uncomfortable or in more advanced cases in pain showing
pale mucus membranes and shock. Obvious signs are dark green
liquid, placental fluid, from the vulva without contractions
- Immediate Veterinary attention is required.
Secondary Uterine inertia - The bitch stops
contractions part way through a whelping. Is one of the most
frequent causes of Dystocia (abnormal or difficult birth).
It can be the result of uterine fatigue from a puppy blocking
the birth canal which the bitch has failed to expel - Veterinary
attention is required.
Pre-eclampsia/eclampsia – The bitch
experiences weakness, spasms, tremors or rigidity of the muscles,
loss of balance or seizures - Immediate Veterinary attention
is required.
Uterine torsion or Rupture – The bitch
passes a persistent heavy flow of fresh blood from the vulva.
Immediate Veterinary attention is required.
Haemorrhage - Immediate Veterinary attention
is required
Pelvic canal obstruction – Strong regular
contractions which fail to produce a pup within 30 minutes
requires veterinary assistance if, with care, it is not possible
to gently assist the birth of the pup. Can lead to secondary
uterine inertia.
Premature placental separation – No
pups have been whelped but a thick black-green discharge is
being passed from the vulva - Immediate Veterinary attention
is required.
Foetal distress – This requires monitoring
by a Vet following any of the above complications.
Once the pups have been thoroughly washed and dried by Mum
their first instinct is to find a nipple and to suckle. It
is important to encourage this and to give a helping hand
if necessary, the milk in the first 24 hours contains colostrum
which helps protect the puppies from infections and viruses.
Make sure all the pups get their fair share and no little
ones miss out.
Weigh each pup and make a note along with the sex and any
obvious markings for identification, this will help when you
check weight gain as the pups grow. Check for cleft palate
and any visible abnormalities.
The first week is the most critical time in a pup’s
life so the environment and early care is of the utmost importance.
If at all possible Mum and pups should be supervised constantly
for at least the first week preferably two. Caring breeders
will set up a bed in the whelping room so they are on hand
day and night. Most early deaths can be attributed to difficult
whelping, congenital or genetic defects, the environment being
too cold or too hot, carelessness of the dam, infection, viruses,
toxic milk or insufficient nourishment.
Healthy pups -
Look and feel vigorous and strong.
Are keen strong sucklers.
Tummies feel full, rounded but not bloated
Tongues are pink and warm
Have obvious dreams, twitching and talking
Skin returns quickly to normal when it is pinched showing
no signs of dehydration.
Gain weight regularly, normally doubling birth weight within
7 – 10 days (weight normally drops in the first 24 hours
after birth but is quickly regained)
Sickly pups -
Look and feel unthrifty, limp and flaccid
Not keen too suckle or make feeble attempts.
Tongue is not pink is cool to the touch and can have a crinkled
appearance
No obvious dreams
Noisy breathing
Frequently crying
Double up in cramps, showing obvious discomfort.
Diarrhoea and/or vomiting
Skin stays creased when pinched a sign of dehydration
Weaning refers to the process of the pups
beginning to and eventually completely eating food other than
their Mothers milk. In the wild pups are generally born in
the spring and would feed from Mum for up to 6 months. The
fall in the supply of milk and partially digested food the
bitch regurgitates for the pups begins the process of weaning.
As the pups grow they are given access to fresh kill, learn
their own hunting skills before finally being fully weaned
and semi-independent by the autumn. The weaning process with
our family dogs generally begins at between 3 and 4 weeks
old.
There are many products on the market for weaning and feeding
young pups, tried and tested home made formulas and ‘natural’
diets, unless you are confident that you can balance the nutritional
needs of a growing pup it is probably best to use a good quality
pre-prepared puppy food. The pup’s digestive system
needs time to adjust to a new food so the first meals should
be very small. Puppies do not tolerate Cows milk so any milky
meals should ideally be made with proprietary puppy milk.
At first more food will decorate the whelping box than ends
up in tummies but the pups will learn quickly and any leftovers
will be cleaned up by Mum.
Quantities should be increased as the pups grow, they should
be chunky little bundles but being too fat is just as dangerous
as being underfed. Generally 4 meals are fed over a 24hour
period. Once weaning begins fresh water should be available
for pups.
The pups will also require worming from 2 weeks, the frequency
of worming will depend on the product used but will need to
be done several times before the pups leave for their new
homes.
The purpose of these articles has been to give an insight
into what is involved in producing a litter of pups. It is
by no means a complete guide and was never intended to be,
there are far more experienced and better qualified people
to do that but my hope is that anyone thinking of breeding
will realise having read the articles that it involves more
than just taking a bitch to a dog. Much can and does go wrong,
thankfully not often but are you prepared to take the risk
emotionally, financially and probably most importantly are
you prepared to put your bitch through it?
Kim
Parris
